On my last visit to Budapest, Megs (my older daughter) and I didn’t quite make it to one of the historic thermal baths that are a crucial part of the city’s culture. This time I dragged Mr G to the Gellert spa as an essential sight, despite the fact he’s never bothered to go to Harrogate Baths which are just a few miles away from our home. When in Rome etc, etc. If you’re wondering how I managed to wangle another spa day- to be clear, this spa experience is categorised as general sightseeing, it is definitely NOT spa expenditure <bangs gavel>.

The baths were housed in a vast, slightly sinister looking, Art Nouveau building on the Buda side of the Danube. It was a looooooong walk from our hotel, so frankly we both needed to soak our aching limbs by the time we got there.

I didn’t cover myself in glory booking this. Me and Mr G have taken one for the team, so that anyone reading this blog will be better prepared for a Buda bath. We arrived with our swimsuits and tickets, and then had to buy compulsory flip-flops, towels and shower caps to get in- most of which we had in our hotel room. The good news is, the souvenir Gellert towel is teal and oh-so-soft, so it will remain in the van forever as a reminder of my folly.

The baths were beautiful but a little faded. Think a mixture between the Harrogate Thermal Baths and Swansea City pool circa 1977. There was a woman with a whistle ensuring no bombing, running or petting. There were several thermal pools, saunas, steam rooms and icy cold dunking pools. I thought the best pool was outside, where the steam was thick in the chilly air.

Hungarian families go to the baths for the whole day to relax and enjoy the waters. I got a bit twitchy after about an hour of enforced relaxation, much of which was taken up by trying to work the changing cabin locks and waiting for Mr G to squeeze his swollen big toe joint into his flip flops!

Budapest was just as good second time around, next stop Sibiu in Transylvania.