When it comes to tourism, Bucharest has been left behind by many of the other central and eastern European cities. Following the fall of communism. Prague, Talinn, Budapest, Ljubljana and even Bratislava have all become hot-spots for weekenders, stag and hen parties- but Bucharest is often overlooked. I remember when our younger daughter was inter-railing she crossed the Romanian capital off her list as it wasn’t worth the detour. Savage, but fair?

It was the Orthodox Easter bank holiday when we were in Bucharest. Unlike Vienna, which was packed on Good Friday, Bucharest was deserted. It made it very easy to cover the sights at a rapid rate, even for us- but it was more difficult to get a feel for the culture and feel of the city.

Bucharest was known as ‘Little Paris’ during its golden age between the wars when the European glitterati flocked there. Much of the beautiful medieval and Belle Epoque architecture is still standing in the elegant old town, but many buildings are in poor repair. The beauty of the historic architecture is in stark contrast with the brutal, concrete constructions under the Soviet and Ceausescu regimes. There are long roads crowded with dark, depressing tower blocks, which are slowly being renovated with bright panels and new windows.

I was particularly staggered by the Palace of Parliament a vast monolith which makes Versailles look poky and understated. It was built in the 1980s and 1990s and it bears the honour of being the world’s heaviest building and its second largest administrative structure. The cost must have been eye-watering and surely impossible to justify in a country where the poverty is palpable and where there are so many glorious old buildings in need of renovation.

We felt that one day was enough to see the highlights, have a delicious lunch in the sun, and enjoy the achingly hip café-culture. We’re more achy hips than achingly hip, so we eschewed the reputedly fantastic nightlife and went back to the campsite to watch Netflix and recharge the batteries (ours not the van’s). On balance, we thought Bucharest was worth a visit, but we can also see why it’s still the Cinderella city of the ex-communist block.