We’ve managed thirteen consecutive days in the van, smashing our previous record. Despite lovely sites and gorgeous weather we were starting to feel a little vanned out. The bed seemed to have shrunk and Mr G was developing manspreading, starfish tendencies at night. I was perfect, of course. 

Before tensions rose to Balkans-in-the-nineties levels we decided to cash in our two Hotels.com rewards nights for a little R&R in Dubrovnik. We booked the Royal Blue, it was the sort of place I wouldn’t usually go for, a bit big and resort-hotel-y. But it had parking outside, we only needed to supplement €50 a night, the views were extraordinary and it had ENORMOUS beds with the softest pillows in the world.

I’d sailed around this area when it was still Yugoslavia. The scenery and architecture were just as lovely, but the atmosphere was a bit grim. There were police roaming the harbour with machine guns and the restaurants were legally required to serve the same limited fayre. 

We were blown away by Dubrovnik today. The city has bounced back after the terrible bombing during the war and is probably the loveliest I have ever visited. The coastline is equally stunning and the people were delightful. We had the same conversation with every waiter. Something along the lines of – where you from? Ahhh I know Leeds. Leeds United. You’re doing very badly this season!