Thirty years ago we went to Venice on our honeymoon, so we couldn’t resist a flying visit to the city on the road from Bled to Bellagio. This time we were vanning it, so instead of a historic hotel on a canal we were tucked away on a campsite at the back of a trading estate. Oh, the glamour!

The lovely ladies at Camping Rialto told us that things had suddenly become manic since Italy released most of their Covid restrictions. She wasn’t wrong,  Venice was as packed as, well, Venice- but Venice at its most frenetic during Carnivale. 

We revisited some old haunts including the iconic Harry’s Bar. When we went in 1992, we remember the bar as elegant and relaxed. We sat at the bar sipping Bellinis, nibbling olives and feeling glamorous. Around us, stylish Italians were chatting, drinking and lunching. I said that the food looked delicious and snacky. Reader, we ate there the next evening and it was indeed delicious, but EYE-WATERINGLY expensive. The photo we took of Mr G holding an empty wallet still makes me chuckle. 

1992 and 2022- is it me or van-life that’s ageing Mr G?

This time Harry’s Bar was a disappointment. It was full of British tourists ( I know, I know hello kettle, you’re black) perusing photocopied bits of paper listing the cocktails. It still served Bellinis and it was still eye-wateringly expensive, but there the similarities stopped. Where were the leather bound menus with no prices for the precious ladies? Where were the skinny Italian women in Dolce and Gabbana smoking and pushing pasta around their plates? Where was the style? 

We still had fun reminiscing. After Mr G finished his bucket of gin with a splash of tonic, we recreated the old photo, and went to eat in a small Osteria, tucked away on one of the back canal bridges. We sat inside overlooking the bridge, eating delicious Frittura Mista and watching an electrical storm rage down over Venice. Even better, Mr G was left with a few Euros in his wallet for our thirtieth wedding anniversary trip to Bellagio on Lake Como tomorrow. 

Quick campsite comment:

We stayed at Camping Rialto, a very decent city campsite only ten minutes by bus from central Venice.

The good bits: It had a very convenient location, lovely friendly staff, clean facilities, a nice café and a swimming pool. All that for just €23.

The bad bits: The pitches were a little tightly packed but for city centre camping in Venice we thought this place was excellent value.