It was a quick hop across the border from North Macedonia to Albania. No more than an hour in total, lovely border guards, and only €50 for car insurance. Kerrching! Obviously the Albanian insurance officer didn’t realise he could charge whatever he wanted and pocket the difference. Do they not have a border insurance Whatsapp group?

At the risk of droning on about the beautiful Balkan landscapes, Albania is genuinely stunning. Wooded hills, clear, teal rivers and sunshine coloured villages. As we drove further south the temperature soared, reaching a heady 28.5 C. Any moment now Mr G will have to eschew his puffer and beanie and I’ll have to up the Oestrogel and turn on our new USB charged van fan (turquoise, of course). 

We could only put one name on the insurance documents-and I’m so relieved I want to go back and give that insurance officer a big hug. The Albanian roads are chaotic. There don’t seem to be any rules, any traffic lights or any road markings. Seriously, even at major junctions everyone just goes when they feel like it. If I’d been driving, I’d still be dithering in the middle of a crossroads on the ring road around Tirana. As it was, Mr G, just went for it and I just yelped and held onto my seat. It’s no wonder the satnav allowed 4 hours to cover 72 miles.

Off the main roads it’s even worse. Can I recommend taking a 4 x 4 or a Sherman tank if you’re planning a road-trip to Albania? There were deep potholes, many unpaved routes and areas where the side of the road had just collapsed leaving perilously long drops down the mountain. The van and Mr G huffed and puffed their ways along, while I tried to find a restaurant to refuel and restore Mr G’s equilibrium. 

With my unerring poshometer, I managed to navigate to a beach bar that was more Marbs than Albs. HK@Valamar was all cocktails and cabanas- it’s clear that with Albania’s beautiful coastline, great hospitality and bargain prices, it’s set to be the next holiday hotspot. I’m not going to lie, we were very tempted to stay. But we were planning a more rough and rustic few days, so we had a delicious meal then headed to the Cape of Rodon, a little-known area which had been recommended by Rino in Ohrid. Reader, we are going off grid with a spot of wild camping. No loo. No electric. Nothing, just me and Mr G. If that all sounds a bit Jack-Nicholson-in-The-Shining to you, then watch this space!

Still smiling at the moment!!!